A brief history of botanical expeditions to Motu Maha Auckland Islands

Polynesians arrived at and lived on Motu Maha Auckland Islands in the 13th or 14th century, but it wasn’t until 1806 that the first European ship reached the archipelago. Since then, several botanists have visited Motu Maha as part of scientific expeditions, increasing our understanding of the flora. In her last blog of the series, Botany Curator Heidi Meudt and her collaborators Alex Fergus and Brian Rance outline some of these significant botanical expeditions and ask, how does the Strannik 2023 Auckland Island Expedition measure up?

1840: The international expeditions

Three independent, international expeditions arrived at Motu Maha Auckland Islands in 1840: the British, French and Americans (Miskelly & Taylor 2020). Although the French expedition made a large botanical collection (Cockayne 1904), the most important of these from a botanical point of view was the British Ross Expedition. The expedition naturalist and Kew botanist, Joseph Dalton Hooker, made the first detailed and thorough account of the flora there.

A painting of a turbulent harbour scene with sailboats.
HMS Erebus and Terror in the Antarctic. James Wilson Carmichael, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The collections Hooker made were all from the Port Ross area on the northeastern part of the main Auckland Island only, where the ships HMS Erebus and Terror anchored for three weeks, although some members also briefly visited Enderby Island (Ross 1847).

A large card with pieces of specimens and handwritten notes pasted on it.
A specimen of Chionochloa antarctica collected by Joseph Hooker in 1840 from the Allan Herbarium (CHR 236566). Image by Kate Boardman CC BY 3.0 NZ Landcare Research 2013

1880s to early 1900s: New Zealand botanists visit Motu Maha

A number of important New Zealand botanists visited Motu Maha Auckland Islands during this period, including John Buchanan (1883, aboard Stella), Thomas Kirk and Frederick Revans Chapman (1890, Hinemoa), and Leonard Cockayne (1903 & 1907, Hinemoa). Port Ross on the main Auckland Island was again the main area visited by these botanists, with some short visits to other smaller islands.

Cockayne’s two trips were notable for a number of reasons (Braund 2016). Cockayne was one of the first botanists to visit multiple islands in the archipelago over the course of his two trips, including the main Auckland, Enderby, Ewing, Rose, Adams, and Disappointment islands. For the 1903 trip, he was mainly at Port Ross, but on the 1907 trip, he and the rest of his team was based for ten days at Carnley Harbour, at the southern end of the main island.

A black and white photo of man standing next to very large grasses.
Leonard Cockayne on Ewing Island, Motu Maha Auckland Islands, during the 1907 expedition. Was Cockayne simply appreciating this moment on the islands, and the beauty and size of this tussock? Or maybe he was wondering how in the world he is going to fit this specimen into his plant press… Photo by Samuel Page, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

On both trips, Cockayne not only surveyed, collected, and studied the plants he found, he also categorised and summarized the ecology and biogeography of Motu Maha Auckland Islands, and of the subantarctic islands as a whole. He also detailed the environmental impacts and damage of humans and naturalised mammals that he observed (Braund 2006; Cockayne 1904).

Finally, Cockayne participated in the first significant New Zealand expedition to Motu Maha Auckland Islands as part of a large scientific team for the 1907 subantarctic expedition, which was organised by the Philosophical Institute of Canterbury, including botanists Bernard Aston, John Smaillie Tennant, Arthur Dorrien-Smith, Robert M. Laing, and Joseph Crosby-Smith (Godley 1979). A direct result of the expedition was the declaration of Adams Island as a reserve for the preservation of flora and fauna in 1910 (Yaldwyn 1975).

A black and white photo of 14 men posing as a group for the camera on some rocky land.
Members of the Auckland Islands Party of the Sub-Antarctic Expedition of 1907. Leonard Cockayne is second from the left in the bottom row. Photo by Samuel Page (died 18 March 1944), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

1940s–1960s: The Cape Expedition, DSIR and the Dominion Museum

Three Coastwatching stations were established in 1941 in the New Zealand subantarctic, as part of the Cape Expedition, the code name for subantarctic WWII Coastwatching activities. The two stations on main Auckland Island were No. 1 at Ranui Cove in the Port Ross area, and No. 2 at Tagua Cove in Carnley Harbour (No. 3 was at the head of Perseverance Harbour on Motu Ihupiko Campbell Island).

A grey overcast day looking out from a rocky beach to a small sailing boat in the distance.
Ranui Cove, Port Ross, near the location of the no. 1 Coastwatchers hut on northern main Auckland Island, with Strannik and Ewing Island in the background. 11 January 2024. Photo by Heidi Meudt. Te Papa

The Cape Expedition gave young, preeminent New Zealand naturalists unique and ample opportunities for field research and fundamentally increased our understanding of the biology of our Southern Ocean islands. Cape Expedition naturalists included Charles Fleming, Robert Falla and Graham Turbott, Robin L. Oliver and John Herman Sorensen. The latter two were mainly stationed at Motu Ihupiko Campbell Island but also conducted botanical surveys around stations 1 and 2 on main Auckland Island, compiling and updating species lists (including introduced species) and plant associations, and making collections (Hartley 2023). The extensive collections made by Cape Expedition coastwatchers generated additional research back on the mainland, with botanists like Victor  Zotov making good use of these for new publications such as Grasses of the subantarctic islands of the New Zealand region (Zotov 1965) while Amy Hodgson used these extensively for her Hepatics from the Subantarctic islands of New Zealand (Hodgson 1962).

The Department of Science and Industrial Research (DSIR) expedition to Motu Maha Auckland Islands led by Robert Falla in November 1954 included DSIR botanists John Hair and Neville Moar. Moar’s focus was on peat stratigraphy and peat vegetation for understanding the vegetation history of the island but was complemented with further botanical collections and a short publication Notes on the Botany of the Auckland Islands (Moar 1958a, 1958b). Rowley Taylor was also on the 1954 expedition and focused on human impacts on vegetation, primarily via animal introductions, on Enderby and Rose Islands in Ross Harbour, observations made in 1954 were expanded with field research in 1966 (Taylor 1971).

Botanists Eric Godley, Fulton Fisher, and Peter James were also based at Port Ross during a 1962-63 (22 December–21 January) expedition, and attempted to refine the list of plants, make collections of live plants and generate a general vegetation map for Motu Maha Auckland Islands (Yaldwyn 1975; Godley 1965, 1969 & 1985). This team planned to walk, botanise and camp the length of main Auckland Island from north to south in high elevation areas that had so far not been well documented botanically. Although Godley’s diary entries show that bad weather scuppered these plans to a large extent (Godley 1985), they nevertheless spent nine days in alpine areas around Bivouac Hill and Mt Eden – mostly lamenting the terrible weather in their tents – but also making some collections and observations, whenever possible.

A yellowed copy of a map of an island showing pencil notes and folds of the map.
Annotated map of Eric Godley and Fulton Fisher’s route (in red) on main Auckland Island tops on the 1962-63 expedition. Scan of original by Alex Fergus
A photograph of a rocky outcrop on the side of a hill. There is very blue sky behind as well as the sea.
Mt Eden, with one of our team members standing nearby on the left for scale. We were fortunate to have amazing weather on the day we visited Mt Eden, on 14 Jan 2023. Photo by Heidi Meudt. Te Papa

Eric Godley returned to Motu Maha Auckland Islands in 1966 as part of a joint expedition organised by the Dominion Museum (now Te Papa) and his employer, DSIR (now Manaaki Whenua – Landcare Research). This time he led the team who camped at pest-free Adams Island for three weeks, where he made several important observations and collections; former Te Papa director Robert Falla lead the other team based at Port Ross (Miskelly & Taylor 2020).

Godley used his two expeditions to compile his Additions and corrections to the flora of the Auckland and Campbell Islands (Godley 1969). The 1966 expedition included Peter Johns and Brian Fineran who were both focused on non-vascular plants, lichens and fungi, and collating additional records for Motu Maha Auckland Islands (Fineran 1971).

Looking down at a coast with grassy slopes and rocky outcrops.
View south from Fleming Plateau to the Western Arm of Carnley Harbour, with Southwest Cape on the right, Victoria Passage in the middle, and the eastern part of Adams Island on the left, 24 January 2023. Photo by Heidi Meudt. Te Papa

1970s–1990s: The most complete flora of Motu Maha Auckland Islands, including the introduced and overlooked

The Auckland Islands Expedition 1972–73 was the largest and most significant expedition to the island group, comprising three back to back expeditions rolled into one, and lasting 99 days in its entirety (Yaldwyn 1975). The aim of the expedition was to establish baselines for the status and distribution of species and the general ecology of the islands as a basis for future research and management in view of the growing interest in the areas of tourism, mineral prospecting, and fisheries.

Among the 37 personnel, which included our own Rodney Russ on his first subantarctic trip, were John Campbell, Mike Rudge, and Chris Challies who focused on the impacts of goats and pigs; the American botanists Henry Imshaug, Dale Vitt, and Ralph Common who collected lichens, mosses and liverworts, respectively; Peter Johnson was a ring-in for Bruce Hamlin, collecting algae and bryophytes for the National Museum (now Te Papa) and vascular plants for Otago University. These botanists spent much time around Ross Harbour but were also able to access high elevation habitats on a number of occasions during their five weeks on Auckland and Adams Islands, making extensive collections of several groups of plants that are often overlooked (Galloway 2008, Imshaug 1973, Vitt 1979). Their observations and collections – housed at different international institutions including Te Papa* – contributed to The moss flora of Auckland Islands (Vitt 1979).

Meanwhile DSIR scientists John Campbell and Mike Rudge, published on the impacts of goats on the island’s vegetation (Rudge & Campbell 1977, and made a case for controlling the tree daisy, Macrolearia lyalli (Campbell & Rudge 1976) in the Port Ross area. Campbell also co-compiled with Peter Johnson what remains the most complete and up to date flora of the island, the excellent and detailed Vascular plants of the Auckland Islands (Johnson & Campbell 1975).

Lichen growing out of a rock crevasse. It's whitish with flat ends that are dark grey.
Stereoculin argus, a lichen observed on rocks on 24 Jan 2023 on Auckland Island, together with other mosses and lichens. iNaturalist observation by Heidi Meudt
A section of moss that looks like spikey sea anemones.
The moss Mniodendron colensoi observed on 18 Jan 2023 on Auckland Island. iNaturalist observation by Heidi Meudt

Many small expeditions visited the Auckland Islands throughout the remainder of the 1970’s and 1980’s. Colin Meurk visited as part of a March 1980 expedition, which lead to his Supplementary notes on plant distributions of the subantarctic Auckland Islands (Meurk 1982), as well as on the 1985 Southern Islands Expedition, and in December 1980 Margaret Wassilieff made collections during a short stay on the island. In February 1982, an ecological expedition included Bill Lee, Paul Kennedy and Andrew Penniket. During their month-long stay  in the Port Ross area, Lee and Kennedy remeasured the Macrolearia lyallii transects established by Campbell and Rudge in 1972, as well as establishing permanent paired exclosure/open plots in Sealers Cove and Terror Cove to assess the impacts of goats and pigs (Lee & Kennedy 1986). Simultaneously, Andrew Penniket established exclosure plots on Enderby Island to assess the effect of cattle and rabbits on the vegetation (Penniket et al. 1986).

Campbell and Rudge were back on Auckland Island in April 1983 and remeasured a subset of their goat transects and published on the impact of pigs and goats on the vegetation over a 10-year monitoring period (Campbell & Rudge 1984). On the same expedition Martin Foggo collected fungal specimens (Penniket et al. 1986).

In 1987, the Department of Conservation (DOC) was formed and took over the management of New Zealand’s subantarctic islands. Their focus has primarily been on the removal of pest animals from main Auckland Island, and surrounding smaller islands.

Matt McGlone led the 1994 Landcare Research Auckland Island Expedition, working alongside Janet Wilmshurst. This pair of paleoecologists were following up Neville Moar’s work from the 1950’s, examining peat sections and collecting peat cores around Port Ross and the Hooker Hills. Their research led to multiple publications increasing our understanding of vegetation history on Motu Maha Auckland Islands and throughout the subantarctic (McGlone & Moar 1997, McGlone et al. 2000, McGlone 2002). On the same expedition John Hunt and Marilyn Ball worked on rātā ecophysiology and the role of flower colour in relation to solar heating in gentians.  A month-long expedition to Campbell Island in 1995 by Colin Meurk, Vivienne Nicholls and Geoff Walls, included two visits but limited time on Motu Maha Auckland Islands. Notably, these brief visits allowed Geoff to collect and identify the origins of the introduced harakeke (Walls 1998).

While DOC’s management of native species has concentrated mostly on rare animals, particularly albatross and sealions, it has included establishment of vegetation recovery monitoring and plant surveys on Enderby Island and also surveys of the islands of the outer Port Ross area. Most of this is unpublished with only internal expedition reports and species lists completed, with the exception of a published field guide to the native plants of the New Zealand subantarctic Islands by legendary southern botanists Brian Rance, Chris Rance and John Barkla (Rance et al. 2015).

2023: The Strannik expedition

We can compare our 2023 expedition to these previous botanical expeditions in terms of trip length, island and habitat coverage, botanical specimens, and personnel.

A sunny view of a bush and grass-laded rocky cliff.
Looking up at Tower of Babel, Auckland Island, with views of lowland grassland, mid-elevation scrub, cliffs, and high-elevation habitat (Fleming Plateau) at the very top. 24 Jan 2023. Photo by Heidi Meudt. Te Papa

Expedition length

Unlike Cape Expedition naturalists, some of whom spent one or more years on Motu Maha Auckland Islands, most expeditions have been limited to one or several weeks. Our four-week expedition (with three weeks physically on land doing field work) was similar to Godley’s four weeks on land in 1962, whereas other expeditions only had a few days.

A sunny view over some grass laden hills with glimpses of the sea and lakes in the distance.
Our campsite with view of Lake Speight, near Camp Cove, Auckland Island, in the mid-elevation grasslands, 24 Jan 2023. Photo by Heidi Meudt. Te Papa

Island and habitat coverage

Second, our coverage of most of the habitats on the main Auckland Island – especially above the treeline – was extensive and not dissimilar to the 1972 expedition (compare the maps from our expedition to theirs). However, our research focus was on angiosperms and ferns (including natives and naturalised plants), so we made very different collections and observations, and we were limited to nine defined research areas on main Auckland Island.

Two people wearing hiking gear are walking over a grassy slope that has small clumps of plants growing intermittently.
Alex Fergus and Fiona Thomson striding across Fleming Plateau through open cushion bog with megaherbs on 24 Jan 2023 during our botanical survey of Auckland Island. Photo by Heidi Meudt. Te Papa

Most of the other botanical expeditions were limited to areas near their temporary camps on main Auckland Island, either at Port Ross or at Carnley Harbour, as they did not have access to a ship for most of the time they were on land (an exception was again the 1972 expedition aboard RV Acheron; Imshaug 1973). Because we could use Strannik as our base (and also go on self-sufficient multi-day backpacking trips), we had the flexibility to travel around and explore a number of different sites.

A man is standing on the edge of a rocky cliff above steep grassy slopes. There are hills and an inlet in the distance.
Chris Morse standing on the edge of Fleming Plateau on Auckland Island, 24 Jan 2023. Photo by Heidi Meudt. Te Papa

However, we did not have permission to land on or perform research on any of the other islands in the archipelago, so we were limited to certain parts of main Auckland Island only, unlike some of the previous botanical trips.

Botanical specimens

The following graphic shows just how many plant specimens (including ours) from Motu Maha Auckland Islands are currently in the three main herbaria in New Zealand (about 8300 total):

Te Papa (WELT) Auckland Museum (AK) Allan Herbarium (CHR)
flowering plants 1154 403 728
ferns 171 96 290
liverworts 2993 19 188
mosses 651 221 221
lichens 12 36 103
algae 693 212 16
total plant specimens from Auckland Islands region 5674 987 1546

The Strannik 2023 expedition deposited 81 of our botanical specimens at Te Papa’s herbarium, and 164 at Allan Herbarium in Lincoln (most of which are still being processed so not yet included in the totals above). Most of our specimens are flowering plants and ferns, with a few liverworts too.

Because different expeditions had different objectives, and specimens (and duplicates) may be deposited at various international institutions, it is difficult to compare expeditions regarding number of specimens collected. But to give an idea, together the three institutions above hold c. 4,000 specimens from the 1972-73 expedition (most collected by Peter Johnson), c. 200 specimens from the 1890-91 expedition (collected by Kirk & Chapman), c. 300 from the 1907 expedition (by Cockayne and colleagues), and c. 750 the 1940s (by a number of WWII Coastwatchers).

Expedition team

Eleven people are standing on a wharf with a sail boat behind them. They are all standing close together and smiling at the camera.
The Strannik 2023 Auckland Island Expedition team, left to right: Alex Fergus, Rodney Russ, Simon Truebridge, Toni Atkinson, Steve Abley, Heidi Meudt, Katie Frame, Chris Morse, Chris Stowe, Fion Thomson, and Brian Rance, standing next to MV Strannik after arriving at Bluff, 4 Feb 2023. Photo by Heidi Meudt. Te Papa

Like Cockayne’s second trip in 1907, and Godley’s second trip in 1966, we had a large team of botanists taking part in our expedition, which a wide range of complementary skills and experience. We can also celebrate that 3 of 7 of the botanists (and 4 of 11 of the whole team) were women, who have been underrepresented on previous expeditions. Working together as part of such a diverse team allowed us to make the most of every day and was a big part of achieving the goals of our expedition.

The Strannik 2023 Auckland Island Expedition – it’s a wrap

Thousands of observations and photos, hundreds of plant specimens, 27 days, 20 recce plots, seven botanists, four crew, one ship, and one subantarctic island – these are some of the summary statistics for our Strannik 2023 Auckland Island Expedition. This is the eleventh and final blog in the series, but it’s not the end of the exhibition story. Our scientific results are currently being confirmed and written up, and will include new records for Auckland Island, and maybe even a new species! Stay tuned for an update later once these results are published.

I am incredibly grateful to Expedition leader Alex Fergus for inviting me to join the team. This was one of the most epic botanical field expeditions I have undertaken so far in my career, and I came away completely in awe of Motu Maha Auckland Islands.

A woman in hiking gear and carrying a large pack is sitting on a rock and smiling at the camera. Behind her is a rocky outcrop and a large-leafed green plant.
Heidi Meudt in her happy place next to flowering megaherb Azorella polaris on Auckland Island, 23 Jan 2023. Photo by Heidi Meudt. Te Papa

I wrote this blog series to showcase the incredible beauty and distinctiveness of the flora, fauna, and history of the islands; the importance of continued botanical research there; the urgent need to rid the main island of devastating predators; and the joy, awe, and hard work of being part of a subantarctic research team. I am now a staunch advocate for the subantarctic islands, and I hope you are too!

Video of my last moments on Auckland Island, where you can almost feel the wind, waves and salt spray, and enjoy the movement of the kelp Durvillaea, with Strannik anchored nearby on 2 Feb 2023. iNaturalist observation and video by Heidi Meudt. Te Papa

Acknowledgements

Thank you to Dhahara Ranatunga (Auckland Museum) and Kate Boardman (Manaaki Whenua – Landcare Research) for providing the specimen data cited above. And most of all, thanks to all the botanists who have contributed to our botanical knowledge of the Motu Maha Auckland Islands flora, including the Strannik 2023 Auckland Island Expedition team!

Footnote

*Te Papa holds nearly 4000 plant specimens from the Auckland Islands Expedition 1972–73 expedition alone, with the vast majority (c. 3400) liverworts and mosses collected by Peter Johnson. These specimens make up a whopping 70% of Te Papa’s 5674 botanical specimens collected from the Auckland Islands.

Further reading

Previous blogs in this series

2 Comments

  1. Thank you for sharing so many different aspects of this incredible trip! Having had the opportunity to visit the island with Heritage and also travel on Strannik with Rodney have been are great ways to learn – but your series has revealed to much more.

    1. Author

      Kia ora Dallas,
      Thank you very much for your comment and for sticking with reading the whole series of 11 blogs posted over the last 4 months! I’m so pleased you were also able to experience the subantarctic and were fortunate to also travel with Rodney Russ. I wish everyone could see for themselves how amazing these islands are, but since not everyone can, I’ve tried to do them justice in these blog series. I’m very happy that you have enjoyed them and found them valuable; it’s been an enjoyable experience for me to relive the trip through blog writing. And I really hope to be able to return. Heidi

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