Birds of Te Araroa 10 – Whanganui to Palmerston North

Between November 2023 and March 2024, Natural History curator Colin Miskelly is walking the length of Aotearoa New Zealand on Te Araroa Trail – counting every bird seen or heard along the way. In this 11th blog in the series, Colin describes birds encountered on the short section between Whanganui and Palmerston North.

A road sign pointing to the direction of Whanganui (left) and Palmerston North (right)
Whanganui to Palmerston North State Highway 3 road sign. Photo by Kate McAlpine

Walking country roads

After crossing the Whanganui River via the City Bridge, Te Araroa Trail heads up and over Durie Hill then east through farmland north of State Highway 3. Our run of mainly fine weather since Cape Reinga had a hiccup on the first day of this section, before three fine days across the Rangitīkei and Manawatū plains to Palmerston North.

Colin standing in the rain, writing in his notebook
Colin Miskelly attempting to record bird count data in the rain east of Whanganui. Photo by Gordon Miskelly and Colin Miskelly

Near Fordell the trail turns south, crosses SH3, and heads down the Whangaehu Valley to the coast.

A paddock full of cows, with a field of maize growing in the background
Dairy cows and maize in the Whangaehu Valley. Photo by Colin Miskelly

Cows – real and not

Most of the section is through productive farmland, as well as passing through the towns of Bulls then Feilding. We encountered a touch of rural whimsy on the outskirts of Feilding, enjoying our lunch next to grazing tin cows.

Three corrugated iron cow sculptures in a field, with a duck sitting nearby
Still life with duck. Brownlie’s cow sculpture in corrugated iron by Jeff Thomson. Better known works by Thomson include the Taihape gumboot and the ironclad 1974 HQ Holden at Te Papa. Photo by Colin Miskelly

Palmerston North and Massey University campus

Te Araroa Trail enters Palmerston North from the north (Bunnythorpe) and cuts through 4 km of suburbia before following the edge of the Manawatū River for 6 km. The trail departs the city through a small patch of forest on the Massey University campus.

Wild coastline

The most interesting wildlife habitat of the section is about 17 km of black sand coastline between the Whangaehu and Rangitīkei Rivers. This included a waist-deep wade across the rain-swollen Turakina River at Koitiata. We last touched on the coast on the Manukau Harbour, Auckland, 32 long days ago.

View of a map with stickers showing the route Colin has walked
The tenth section of Te Araroa Trail (yellow stickers), showing sites where Colin provided digital sign of his presence. Photo by Kate McAlpine
Black-sand beach covered in old felled tree trunks, with numerous birds flying above
Southern black-backed gull | karoro colony west of Koitiata. Photo by Colin Miskelly

Birds of the Rangitīkei coast

The southern black-backed gull | karoro was by far the most abundant bird along the coast, centred on a large colony west of the Turakina River. I estimated at least 1350 adults and 820 chicks to be present, but the rain and wind made for challenging counting conditions. Partly due to the large number of scavenging gulls, I found only three dead seabirds along 17 km of coast (a fairy prion | tītī wainui, a Buller’s shearwater | rako, and a little penguin | kororā).

Black-fronted dotterel on sand
Black-fronted dotterel. Photo by Neil Fitzgerald, New Zealand Birds Online

The birding highlight of the coast was two pairs of black-fronted dotterels either side of the Turakina River mouth. This pretty little wader colonised New Zealand from Australia in the 1950s, but still has a very restricted distribution. Apart from a single bird seen in the lower Whanganui River (see previous blog), these birds and three on the Manawatū River are likely to be the only of this species we will encounter on Te Araroa Trail. Other wading birds on this section of coast included 36 pied stilts | poaka, a flock of 16 bar-tailed godwits | kuaka, 15 variable oystercatchers | tōrea pango, and 9 banded dotterels | pohowera.

Migrating spoonbills

Also of interest on the coast were two high-flying royal spoonbills | kōtuku ngutupapa following the coastline north. Spoonbills have become an increasingly familiar sight at estuaries and river mouths throughout the country. However, the bulk of the population breeds in the south of the South Island and overwinters on the large harbours of the northern North Island. These two birds were likely migrating north from their breeding grounds.

View of royal spoonbill flying from below
Royal spoonbill | kōtuku ngutupapa in flight. Photo by Bruce Buckman, New Zealand Birds Online

Birds of the Manawatū River and Massey University campus

The trail offered only occasional glimpses of the river, but this was enough to find three more black-fronted dotterels, 32 spur-winged plovers, 13 pied stilts | poaka, and a single banded dotterel | pohowera.

Pied stilt walking in shallow water
Pied stilt | poaka. Photo by Tony Whitehead, New Zealand Birds Online

Birds in the forest on Massey University campus included 2 bellbirds | korimako and a shining cuckoo | pīpīwharauroa, as well as tūī, New Zealand fantail | pīwakawaka, grey warbler | riroriro, and sacred kingfisher | kotare.

Farmland birds

The less said about the boring birds of the rest of the section the

Bird species added since the previous section

Nil.

Summary statistics for section ten

Cumulative totals for Te Araroa sections completed are given in parentheses.

  • Days on the trail = 4 (60)
  • Kilometres travelled and surveyed = 117.2 (1575.9)
  • eBird/Atlas checklists completed = 68 (857)
  • Number of bird species = 48 (96)
  • Total live birds seen or heard = 8642 (63,913)
  • Most abundant species = southern black-backed gull | karoro (2702) followed by house sparrow | tiu (1870)
  • Most abundant endemic species = New Zealand fantail | pīwakawaka (77), followed by tūī (75)
  • Most frequent species = house sparrow | tiu (95.2 % of checklists), followed by European goldfinch | kōurarini (88.9 %)
  • Most frequent native species = silvereye | tauhou (52.4% of checklists)
  • Most frequent endemic species = New Zealand fantail | pīwakawaka (50.8 % of checklists)
  • Endemic bird score = 25

Other blogs in this series

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1 Comment

  1. Very interesting to hear about the Royal Spoonbills. I hadn’t realised they nested only in the south of the south island and migrated to and from the northern harbours. There seem to be so many here and there throughout the country. There seems to be a permanent presence of at Pauatahanui, near Wellington and at the Travis wetland in Christchurch.

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