Birds of Te Araroa 7 – Te Kūiti to Taumarunui

Birds of Te Araroa 7 – Te Kūiti to Taumarunui

Between November 2023 and March 2024, Natural History curator Colin Miskelly is walking the length of Aotearoa New Zealand on Te Araroa Trail – counting every bird seen or heard along the way. In this eighth blog in the series, Colin describes birds encountered between Te Kūiti and Taumarunui.

The Timber Trail

Te Araroa Trail takes two bulges to the east in the central North Island. The northern bulge is the arc of the Timber Trail, which runs from Pureora in the north to Ongarue in the south.

A view of a forest valley.
A misty morning on the southern section of the Timber Trail. Photo by Colin Miskelly

At 86 km long, the Timber Trail is similar in length to Ninety Mile Beach, and takes three or four days to walk. The Timber Trail is mainly used by mountain-bikers. However, after day one, we found we were out of phase with the bikers, and encountered only three riders in 39 km of walking on day two, and did not see any riders on our 18 km final day.

A large steel suspension bridge across a bushy valley.
The 141-metre long Maramataha Bridge on the Timber Trail is the longest single-span suspension bridge ever built by the Department of Conservation. Photo by Colin Miskelly

The Timber Trail starts in the majestic uncut podocarp forest at Pureora, but most of its length follows tramlines that were used to extract the rimu, tōtara, and mātai that was used to build New Zealand’s town, cities, bridges and fencelines.

Two men in hiking gear and carrying packs are crossing a steel suspension bridge.
Gordon and Colin Miskelly noting down a shining cuckoo | pīpīwharauroa that they heard while crossing the Orauwaka bridge on the Timber Trail. Photo by Denise Albert

Te Araroa Trail largely follows the Timber Trail for its full length, apart from a 3 km diversion over the 1165 m summit of Mt Pureora, which the cyclists pedal around.

A section of a map with red and yellow post-it notes with the words "sign here" pointing to various places on a trail marked out in a sharpie pen.
The eighth section of Te Araroa Trail (red stickers), showing sites where Colin provided digital sign of his presence. Photo by Kate McAlpine

Walking rural landscapes

It takes two days to reach the Timber Trail by foot from Te Kūiti, with Te Araroa Trail following the Mangaokewa River gorge for 1.5 days before striking east to Pureora.

A farm with sheep corralled in wooden fencing beside a building.
Sheep mustered for shearing west of Pureora. Photo by Colin Miskelly

The Mangaokewa River Track passes through native forest initially, then emerges into northern King Country sheep and beef farms.

A large bull is standing on the left of the image with a farm in the background.
A (fortunately) placid Angus bull beside Te Araroa Trail north of Taumarunui. Photo by Colin Miskelly

The last 9 km of the Timber Trail passes through farmland, before linking with the Ongarue Back Road to follow the east bank of the Ongarue River through mixed farmland to Taumarunui, about 25 km away.

A herd of red deer are standing close together in a field surrounded by hills.
Red deer stags in velvet, Ongarue. Photo by Colin Miskelly

For most of this distance, the Te Araroa Trail runs alongside the Auckland to Wellington railway line, which also follows the Ongarue River.

A road and a train line with a train going past.
Taumarunui on the Main Trunk Line. Photo by Colin Miskelly

The first falcons of the trail

We heard then saw our first New Zealand falcon | kārearea since leaving Cape Reinga on Day 39, in the Mangaokewa gorge. Falcons are very rare in the northern North Island, and we had seen 146 swamp harriers | kāhu before we saw a kārearea. Where I live (in central Wellington) the ratios are reversed – I see about 50 kārearea for every kāhu.

A hawk or falcon in flight
New Zealand falcon | kārearea in flight. Photo by Craig McKenzie, New Zealand Birds Online

We had a further five kārearea sightings on the Timber Trail, and one along Ongarue River. On three of these occasions, the falcons were attacking kāhu, and we heard their strident calls before witnessing their spectacular aerial battles.

New Zealand’s smallest bird

The climb over Mt. Pureora took us through stunted subalpine forest festooned with mosses and lichens. It was here that I saw the first riflemen | tītitipounamu of the Te Araroa Trail (a pair) – a species that we did not see elsewhere on the Timber Trail.

North Island rifleman | tītitipounamu. Photo by Glenda Rees, New Zealand Birds Online

A green gem

Our first native parakeets of Te Araroa Trail were a few yellow-crowned parakeets | kākāriki at the Ngaherenga Campsite at the start of the Timber Trail (Pureora). We eventually had two dozen observations of them – mainly their chattering calls from high in the canopy, but one of the suspension bridges gave us a great view of three in the top of a tall tōtara tree.

A green parrot with a yellow patch on the top of its head is sitting in a tree.
Yellow-crowned parakeet | kākāriki. Photo by Duncan Watson, New Zealand Birds Online

Birds of the Timber Trail

The diverse and abundant native forest bird community was a highlight of the Timber Trail – the result of a fortuitous combination of extensive good habitat, cold winters (to suppress the numbers of introduced predators), and effective pest control.

Eight of the nine most abundant species along forested sections of the Timber Trail were native species, led by whitehead | pōpokotea (473 birds), tomtit | miromiro (179), and bellbird | korimako (143). The introduced chaffinch | pahirini came in fourth with 122 birds.

A larger bird with a long tail is being fed by a much smaller bird while both of them are sitting on a tree branch.
Long-tailed cuckoo | koekoeā being fed by its much smaller whitehead | pōpokotea foster parent. Photo by Adam Clarke, New Zealand Birds Online

Other notable endemic birds of the Timber Trail included 99 North Island robins | toutouwai, 47 long-tailed cuckoos | koekoeā, 46 kākā, and 24 kererū | New Zealand pigeons. The high number of koekoeā heard and seen was undoubtedly due to the abundance of pōpokotea, which are the North Island brood hosts for this large cuckoo.

Bird species added since the previous section

Yellow-crowned parakeet | kākāriki, New Zealand falcon | kārearea, rifleman | tītitipounamu, common redpoll.

Summary statistics for section seven

Cumulative totals for Te Araroa sections completed are given in parentheses.

  • Days on the trail = 6 (43)
  • Kilometres travelled and surveyed = 170.1 (1,116.6)
  • eBird/Atlas checklists completed = 95 (614)
  • Number of bird species = 45 (93) (updated by 3 nocturnal species)
  • Total live birds seen or heard = 5816 (48,522)
  • Most abundant species = chaffinch | pahirini (674)
  • Most abundant native species = whitehead | pōpokotea (496)
  • Most frequent species = chaffinch | pahirini (92.2 % of checklists), followed by Eurasian blackbird | manu pango (82.2 %)
  • Most frequent native species = grey warbler | riroriro (80 % of checklists), followed by New Zealand fantail | pīwakawaka (72.2 %)
  • Endemic bird score = 40

Other blogs in this series

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