Birds of Te Araroa 3 – Kerikeri to Whangārei Harbour

Between November 2023 and March 2024, Natural History curator Colin Miskelly is walking the length of Aotearoa New Zealand on Te Araroa Trail – counting every bird seen or heard along the way. In this fourth blog in the series, Colin continues south, describing birds encountered between Kerikeri and when he crossed the entrance to Whangārei Harbour.

North-eastern coasts, forests and wetlands

From Kerikeri, Te Araroa tracks down the east coast, occasionally meeting the coast – including two long pedestrian bridges across estuaries – but mainly on inland ridges or coastal slopes.

A man carrying packs on both his front and back is walking towards the camera on a narrow, fenced bridge over a body of water. There is hilly land in the background.
Colin Miskelly crossing Whananaki Bridge. Photo by Gordon Miskelly and Colin Miskelly

The trail provides spectacular views of many offshore islands, from Tawhiti Rahi/Poor Knights south to Aotea/Great Barrier Island.

A view of a coast on a sunny day. There is a large tree on fenced farmland in the foreground and white waves coming up onto shore on the rocky coast that continues on to the distance.
Whananaki Coast viewed from Te Araroa Trail. Photo by Colin Miskelly

At the entrance to Whangārei Harbour, the trail turns to the west and follows Te Whara Track along the spectacular crest of Te Whara/Bream Head.

A wide sweeping landscape with a crescent sandy beach. There are trees in the foreground with the mostly flat land down below, and mountains in the distance. It's cloudy but the sea and sky is blue.
The view south from the summit of Kauri Mountain. Te Araroa Trail runs along the beach then along the ridge in the distance. Photo by Colin Miskelly
The top part of a map of Aotearoa New Zealand with a series of post-it flags pointing at different spots on a black trail drawn onto the map. The first five flags are green, the next five flags are yellow, and the last six flags are red.
The third section of Te Araroa Trail (red stickers), showing sites where Colin provided digital sign of his presence. Photo by Kate McAlpine

An isolated pocket of weka

Soon after crossing from Opua to Okiato on the vehicle ferry, we started hearing then seeing weka. These are the descendants of 39 birds released in 2002. It is a mystery why this translocation succeeded when nearly all attempts to re-establish weka on the mainland have failed.

A closeup of a round brown bird with a small head and grey feathers by its eyes and chin. It is walking on grass.
North Island weka, Russell. Photo by Les Feasey. New Zealand Birds Online

The website eBird shows weka to be present from Okiato to Russell, but locals met along the trail reported them to be present and breeding as far south as Helena Bay.

The wandering tattler

That wonderfully evocative name would work well as a by-line for this entire blog series. Yet it’s a real name, and it belongs to a very fine bird.

A grey bird with a long straight beak and yellow legs is standing on grey rocks making it seem almost disguised.
Wandering tattler, Northland. Photo by Bill Abbott. New Zealand Birds Online

Wandering tattlers breed on mountain slopes in Alaska, and most spend the northern winter on tropical atolls in the Pacific Ocean. One or two reach Aotearoa New Zealand most years, including one that frequented Ocean Beach during the 2022-23 summer, where it was found and identified by local resident Cathy Mitchell.

Likely the same bird returned a few weeks ago, and Cathy and I watched it feeding on the edge of a sandy stream before flying to a nearby rock outcrop, giving its diagnostic rippling call. Cathy’s Unusual Bird Report (UBR) for the original sighting was accepted by the Birds New Zealand Records Appraisal Committee , and Cathy has already submitted a UBR for its return visit.

Reclusive denizens of Northland’s swamps and wetlands

A highlight of this section of Te Araroa Trail is the opportunity to see and hear several hard-to-find wetland bird species.

A brown duck with a white beak and green feathers on the back of its head is swimming in a pond or estuary that has reeds growing in the background.
Male brown teal | pāteke, Northland. Photo by Les Feasey. New Zealand Birds Online

Eastern Northland is a stronghold for brown teal | pāteke, where several local populations have responded well to predator control. We found them at several sites, including a flock of 81 just outside Ngunguru.

We heard and saw fernbirds | mātātā and banded rail | moko pererū at several sites, but failed to get spotless crake | pūweto to show themselves. On our last morning before crossing Whangārei Harbour, Cathy Mitchell was able to show us an Australasian bittern | matuku-hūrepo (a very rare species) on a wetland only a few hundred metres from the trail.

A light and dark brown bird with longish legs has its neck stretched up. It is standing on the edge of a reedy estuary or river bank.
Australasian bittern. Photo by Imogen Warren. New Zealand Birds Online

A familiar call in the night

I make an effort to listen for calls of nocturnal birds at each overnight camping location. While staying at Ocean Beach, east of Whangārei, my host Cathy Mitchell joined me for a brief kiwi-call survey near her house. We heard several distant kiwi, and were very surprised to hear several Cook’s petrels | tītī calling in flight over the forest on Bream Head.

A stout white bird with dark wing feathers is mid-flight in a grey sky. It has a short, slightly hooked beak and dark markings around its eyes.
Cook’s petrel at sea. Photo by Philip Griffin. New Zealand Birds Online

Cathy and her husband previously worked as Department of Conservation rangers on Te Hauturu-o-Toi Little Barrier Island, which is the main breeding site for Cook’s petrel. While we could not see the birds in the darkness, we were both agreed on their identity.

Bird species added since the previous section

Grey teal | tētē-moroiti, brown teal | pāteke, grey duck | pārera, Australasian shoveler | kuruwhengi, helmeted guineafowl, banded rail | moho pererū, weka, bar-tailed godwit | kuaka, wandering tattler, reef heron | matuku moana, Australasian bittern | matuku-hūrepo, royal spoonbill | kotuku ngutupapa, kākā.

Summary statistics for section three

Cumulative totals for Te Araroa sections completed are given in parentheses.

  • Days on the trail = 8 (18)
  • Kilometres travelled and surveyed = 183.7 (426.2)
  • eBird/Atlas checklists completed = 103 (229)
  • Number of bird species = 64 (72)
  • Total live birds seen or heard = 6,306 (11,956)
  • Most abundant species = common myna | maina (736)
  • Most abundant native species = red-billed gull | tarāpunga (394)
  • Most frequent species = chaffinch | pahirini (79.6 % of checklists), followed by tūī, sacred kingfisher | kōtare, and Eurasian blackbird | manu pango (all with 76.7 %)
  • Endemic bird score = 39

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3 Comments

  1. The weka releases to Russell 1966-71 eventually failed, but following intensive predator control Russell Landcare released 39 weka in 2002 which have naturally spread throughout the peninsula. Some garden refugees have been unlawfully exported to the northern catchments of Kawakawa, Opua and Puketotara, and have thrived in predator-controlled areas.

  2. Hi Colin,
    I live in Russell and yes, weka are common here, nosing round much to the delight of many and the irritation of some as they riffle through our vegetable patches. The current population is not related to that introduction in the 60s which did in fact fail. The birds here now are from a second reintroduction in the early 1990s and thrive in no large part due to ongoing predator control in the Okiato, Te Wahapu and Russell areas by Russell Landcare Trust. The birds have spread well beyond the introduction area and there are reports now of weka on the Opua side – quite how they got there is a mystery, perhaps translocated by disgruntled gardeners! If you’d like to know more then talk to Lindsay Alexander of Russell or Tony Beauchamp ex DOC who were both involved in that 90s introduction. I can provide contacts if you wish.
    As a post script, Russell Landcare Trust’s predator control work has been so successful that Russell Peninsula has recently been included as part of the Predator Free Pēwhairangi Whānui project with the Trust appointed to implement the programme on the peninsula.
    Thanks for the interesting read, and good luck on the trail. May there be no more cyclones!

  3. I love your photos of that beautiful coastline Colin!

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