Category Archives: Birds

Are muttonbirds radioactive?

The March 2011 Japanese earthquake and following tsunami took a terrible human toll, and also had devastating impacts on wildlife. As the tsunami tracked east it washed over the low-lying atolls of the north-western Hawaiian islands, killing thousands of albatrosses and petrels. The tsunami also crippled the Fukushima-Daiichi nuclear power-plant, sending a plume of radiation across the North Pacific, which contaminated the marine food chain.

Adult sooty shearwaters (kaiaka) depart from Rerewhakaupoko (Solomon Island) at dawn. Photo: Colin Miskelly, Te Papa

Several species of New Zealand-breeding seabirds migrate to the North Pacific during the southern winter, and were likely to have been exposed to radioactive fallout. The best known of these is the sooty shearwater (muttonbird), of which the entire population is in the North Pacific during June-September. Shearwaters are top predators, feeding on krill, and small fish and squid. Radio-active isotopes of cesium and iodine in dust that settle on the sea are taken up by phytoplankton, and become concentrated at each higher trophic level in the food chain. It is not yet known whether radiation exposure from the Fukushima-Daiichi nuclear disaster was sufficient to cause lethal or sub-lethal effects on sooty shearwaters and other top predators in the North Pacific.

Sooty shearwaters moult and replace their feathers when in the North Pacific, growing a new set each year to ensure top aerodynamic performance on their record-breaking migrations. Radioactive isotopes of cesium can be incorporated in growing feathers and other tissues of birds. It is not known whether radioactive compounds are metabolised during egg formation, potentially passing contamination to the next generation.

Adult sooty shearwater (kaiaka) at its burrow entrance, Kundy Island. Photo: Colin Miskelly, Te Papa

Muttonbirders preparing for the 2012 harvest of titi (sooty shearwater chicks) on islands around Rakiura/Stewart Island were concerned about potential human health effects from handling and eating titi. The topic was discussed at length in early February at the Rakiura Titi Committee permit day meeting in Colac Bay. Dr Colin Miskelly (Te Papa’s curator of terrestrial vertebrates) was at the meeting, and offered to arrange for radiation levels to be measured in titi, if the muttonbirders were able to collect a sample of pre-season chicks. Funds to undertake the analyses were made available by Landcare Research. Staff from Landcare Research are studying related seabird species on islands in the Bay of Plenty.

A muttonbirder holds a pre-season titi (sooty shearwater chick). Photo: Colin Miskelly, Te Papa

Fifteen titi each were collected by Rakiura Titi Committee representatives from Taukihepa (Big South Cape Island) south-west of Rakiura, and Herekopare Island to the north-east. The 30 titi were prepared by muttonbirders as if for consumption, then forwarded to the National Radiation Laboratory for analysis. The results showed no measurable radioactive iodine-131 or cesium-134 or 137 contamination in any of the birds. The results were provided to the Rakiura Titi Committee 2 weeks before the start of the 2012 titi season.

“This is great news for the muttonbirders” Rakiura Titi Committee chairman Stewart Bull said. “We are going through tough times following the Easy Rider tragedy. News that the titi are safe to capture and eat gives us all reason to think more positively about the season ahead”.

Good enough to eat. Roast titi await palatability testing. Photo: Colin Miskelly, Te Papa

Our far South – Antipodes and Bounty Islands: dots of importance

I awoke on the morning of 6 March to discover that we had very rapid progress over night and were approaching the rugged columnular basalt cliffs of the Antipodes Island, crowned with green tussocks. The home to the Antipodean albatross,the Antipodes Island parakeet and the erect-crested penguin (to name just a few of the birds!). It is almost pest free, but sadly mice still live in this barren place.

Bounty Island shag. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

Furseal. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

The only native mammals found on shore here are elephant seals and the New Zealand and Sub-Antarctic furseals. 1804 saw the first sealing gang arrive at the Antipodes. This American gang killed about 60,000 seals over the course of the year they were stationed on the islands. While the location of prime sealing grounds was jealously guarded at the time, the evidence they took home led to a sealing boom on the islands.

After 1807 sealing was occasional and catches small. By the 1830s seals were all but wiped out and sealing in the Antipodes came to an end.

Incredibly sealing in the Southern oceans saw some 7 million furseals (Arctocephalus spp.) were killed for their skins. Essentially by 1830 all populations of furseals were so depleted to make fursealing unecomonic.

Bounty Island shag. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

Populations of furseals have bounced back, but interestingly it seems that the Bounty Islands may be the main breeding area with the Antipodes islands being primarily a haul-out area.

The erect-crested penguins endemic to the islands, and like many penguin species, they are showing signs of decline.

Once again after a night of travel we found ourselves in the early hours of the morning at our next location, the jagged and totally inhospitable looking Bounty islands.

Bounty Islands.

These are projections of rock sticking out of the sea, yet home to numerous furseals, Salvin’s albatross and their very own shag.

Sadly we could not go ashore on Spider island in the group to look for the species of Spider that Phil Sirvid would have liked me to collect.

Sadly our trip now is coming to an end and this will be my last blog post from the boat. It will be weird to be on land again in just a couple of days.

Salvin’s albatross. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

Our Far South: Campbell Island – the return

 Our first sight of land since Antarctica in the dim small hours of the 3rd of March was Campbell Island.

Campbell island. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

Campbell Island is home to more species of albatross than anywhere else in the New Zealand region with 6 species breeding here. The most conspicuous of these being the Southern Royal albatross that soar over head. These massive birds with a wingspang over 3.5m stand out with their briliant white plumage against the sombre tones of the landscape and the darkened sky. We spent most of an afternoon and evening up the col Lyall board walk which winds up past Beeman hill and on up to the Western Cliffs.

Albatross ‘gamming’. Photo Victor Anderlini.

Later in the day a large number of royal albatross were congregating in small groups, a behaviour known as gamming. with displays of head shaking and wing flapping, squawking and other unusual vocal, clacking and popping sounds produced with their enormous beaks.

Royal albatross and chick. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te papa.

The experience of having an albatross soar low and fast right above your head is a very memorable thing, the swoosh of their wings like fighter jets. We were lucky to see some nesting birds with small chicks. This is my second time on Campbell Island, the first time was 1995 where I was stranded along with a couple of other scientists after the boat we were sailing in got caught in a storm.

royal albatross. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

That was the last year that there was a manned weather station on the island. the buildings are still here and much as I remembered them, however since then the final introduced predator, the rats, have been removed.

Royal albatross. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te papa.

This rugged, boggy island had been used for farming and the last of the sheep had been removed in 1990/91. The amount of regrowth of the tussocks, mega herbs and dracophyllum shrubs is astounding. The old coast watchers hut that had been used in the 1940′s (that in 1995 still had a partial roof),

Ruins of the coastwatchers hut.

was pretty much ruins, with just a few frames of walls remaining. The sealions, that last time I was here were mostly in Northwest Bay, were now using the coves and inlets of Perseverence harbour much more. There has been a small growth of numbers on the island, in contrast to the diminishing numbers on the Auckland islands.

Elephant seal. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

The Elephant seals have been declining in numbers, as have the Rock hopper penguins. This may be a real indicator of global warming, as it is possible that they are having to dive deeper or travel further to hunt their prey, decreasing the success rate of pups and chicks.

Campbell Island, Northwest Cliffs.

We are now heading for the Antipodes islands, which was not part of the original plan. Because the sea ice forced our early retreat from Antarctica and the remarkably smooth seas we have had on our northward journey we have a little extra time. Entering this very productive area just off the continental shelf has already afforded us glimses of a mixed pod of long finned pilot whales and Bottlenose dolphins. the Antipodes islands are pest free apart from mice, people onboard are working to raise money for DOC to embark on a project to eradicate them, and expensive business. About $1,000,000 will be required, but the achievement of which will no doubt be a huge boon for the abundant birdlife on the island.

Zooming-in on New Zealand Storm-Petrel breeding sites

Teamwork during a Te Papa funded charter trip in the Hauraki Gulf got us a step closer in the hunt for the breeding grounds of the recently rediscovered New Zealand Storm-Petrel (Pelaeornis maoriana). The search team included Te Papa researcher Jean-Claude Stahl, Chris Gaskin who is part of the New Zealand storm-petrel research group, and Brett Rathe from Assassin Fishing Charters, all seasoned storm-petrel chasers. Also joining the trip were Dylan Owen from the National Library, and Jacinda Woolly, a trainee ranger with the Auckland Council Parks staff, who was to be dropped off on Burgess Island to participate in petrel studies ashore.

The date of the trip (20 February) was chosen to maximize the chances of success. It was estimated to fall around the provisional hatching time (back calculated from the latest published sightings in the greater Hauraki Gulf), when foraging trips are at their shortest and many non-breeding birds attend colonies.  And it also fell just before new moon, when storm-petrels return ashore just after dark rather than waiting for moonset later at night as they often do during the first quarter. The plan for the day was to zigzag northwards towards Little Barrier, the Mokohinau islands and beyond, before returning to just offshore of one or both island groups for observations at dusk, when birds were expected to concentrate off potential breeding sites. The forecast was for mainly fine weather with a light to moderate NNE to NNW wind, although some heavy showers were announced for the afternoon.

Off to a pleasant day at the office. Left to right: Dylan Owen, Jacinda Woolly, Chris Gaskin, Brett Rathe. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 

Skipper Brett Rathe approaching Little Barrier from the south-west. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa

 
 

Jean-Claude Stahl on the lookout. Photo and copyright Dylan Owen.

 
 We left Sandspit near Warkworth in the morning and headed to a known feeding ground of New Zealand storm-petrels north-west of Little Barrier Island. Following now standard procedure fine tuned over the years, the boat engine was mercifully stopped for chumming and drifting. This attracts petrels from downwind, as petrels have a good sense of smell which they use to both forage at sea and locate their nests ashore at night. No New Zealand storm-petrels were seen there, but kingfish made the day for a growing flock of flesh-footed shearwaters, black petrels and white-faced storm-petrels, while Cook’s petrels and Buller’s shearwaters were passing by.

Waiting for the birds - the late kingfish would have probably agreed with the boat's name. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 

First off the blocks: flesh-footed shearwater (left) and black petrel ready for brunch. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 

White-faced storm-petrel. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 Next stop was Simpson’s Rock south of the Mokohinau islands. The station there was more successful, with up to four New Zealand stormies around the boat, as well as black petrels, flesh-footed and fluttering shearwaters, and a fairy prion.
 

First New Zealand storm-petrel of the day. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa

 
 

Fluttering shearwater in moult. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 After Simpson’s Rock, we headed towards the Mokohinau islands to drop off Jacinda to Burgess Island and pick up Sarah Wells and Dylan Van Winkel. Both had completed their stint on the island as part of a study of white-faced storm-petrels. We took this opportunity to pass off Fanal island en route to Burgess, with red-billed gulls rather than petrels ruling the roost off the island around midday.  
 
  

Off the Mokohinaus. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa

 
 

Chris Gaskin preparing to row Jacinda Woolly off to Burgess Island. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 

Sarah Wells and Dylan van Winkel back to "civilization". Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 

Heading west from the Mokohinaus, with the Burgess Island lighthouse in the background. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 We passed Groper Rock when heading to a station west of the Mokohinaus, where the most notable visitor was a blue shark circling under the boat. From there we headed to a last offshore station north of the Mokohinaus. There up to four, possibly five New Zealand stormies came to the boat, along with one Black-winged and one White-naped petrel, the latter two hinting that we were nearing the shelf edge north of the Mokohinaus.
 

Passing off Groper Rock when heading west from the Mokohinaus. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 

Sleek visitor: blue shark circling underneath the boat. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 

New Zealand (lefthand bird) and white-faced storm petrels pattering their feet along the sea surface when feeding. The word petrel derives from this habit of "walking on the water", in reference to St Peter. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 

New Zealand storm-petrel, frontal view. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa

  These and many previous observations around the Mokohinaus had given some hope that the species breeds somewhere in this island group. However none were seen when we were back in the vicinity of the Mokohinaus at dusk, slowly cruising from north-east of Fanal island to the stacks south of Burgess Island then to Groper Rock. The total absence of birds there at the optimal time of day and breeding season does not bode well for the chances of a major breeding site being located in this island group.

Although negative results can be crucial pieces of information in science (there are several reputed journals of negative results), they are ususally not the glamorous outcomes sought for by researchers. As a last throw of the dice, the team decided to head to another station off Little Barrier Island later in the evening. There the first New Zealand storm-petrel was circling around the boat in a matter of minutes, and up to six possibly seven were attracted overall, one of which was caught and banded by Sarah Wells and Chris Gaskin, adding to the NZSP research group’s tally for this season. This location was in the same general area where a bird had previously flown on board of a fishing boat anchored for the night off the island. In Jean-Claude’s opinion, the activity there late in the day looked more what was to be expected off a petrel colony, and makes Little Barrier the best prospect so far for breeding sites of one of our most enigmatic birds. This however comes with a catch (as it always does): finding nests of a swallow-sized nocturnal bird in the formidable cliffs and ravines of Little Barrier will not be a picnic.

 

Seawatch off the Mokohinaus at dusk. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

  
 

Heading back via Little Barrier. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 

Chris Gaskin ready to release a New Zealand storm-petrel. Photo and copyright Dylan Owen.

 
  

Best haystack to date - who will find the needle? Little Barrier seen from the north. Photo Jean-Claude Stahl, copyright Te Papa.

 
 
 
 
 By Jean-Claude Stahl, Te Papa; Chris Gaskin, New Zealand storm-petrel project (BICCF-NZSP 2012); Brett Rathe, Assassin Fishing Charters.

Our far South: all at sea

In the early hours of the 25th, we were awoken and called to the bridge to see the biggest wall of ice that I will probably ever see.

The Ross Ice Shelf, and enormous slab faced Ice sheet stretching over 700km from Cape Crozier to the Bay of Whales. The height of the visible face of the Ice sheet is about 40m high, being that bit of it that sticks out of the water.

Ross Iceshelf.

This sheet ice loses chunks at the face that float off, these are called calves, and every so often huge pieces break off forming tabular icebergs which can be kilometres in length.

Tabular iceberg. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa

From there we turned to head West towards Terra Nova Bay on the Antarctic continent. Well that was the plan, we got to within about a kilometre when we were forced to abandon the attempt due to Ice build up.

This was the theme then for the next couple of days. We would head east to get out of the ice and then attempt to get to the continent, next stop Cape Hallet, then Cape Adare, all attempts to land proved impossible.

A final ditch effort for another shore landing came on the 27th at the Islands of Possession and Foyn (named for the gentleman that invented the exploding harpoon!).

Foyn Island. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

Once again we were foiled with the only access point left on the island being a very slippery iced up beach of large boulders. Possession Island was where Sir James Clarke Ross planted the flag for Queen Victoria and the British Empire.

Breaking through sea-ice

The weather was relatively calm and so a polar plunge was organised for those who had the need to prove something. Which I will admit was fairly entertaining.

When we left from there it was really our farewell to Antarctica as we started to head north and out of the Ross Sea. Not the end for Antarctic animals though, with further sightings of Minke whales and Emperor penguins.

Emperor penguin. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

Out in the forming sea ice, on some of the larger floes tracks of Emperor penguins were often seen, with the occasional Crabeater seal now also making an appearance.

Emperor penguin & tracks on sea ice. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

Crabeater seals Lobodon carcinophaga, do not actually eat crabs, they do however eat krill. The genus name lobodon, means lobed teeth as they have multicusped teeth in the upper and lower jaw that come together to strain krill from the water. Krill are small shrimp-like crustaceans and form an imporatnat part of the Antarctic food-chain. In the Southern Ocean, one species, Euphausia superba, makes up an estimated biomass of over 500,000,000 tonnes - over half of this is eaten by whales, seals, penguins, squid and fish each year!

Crabeater seals are also regarded as the most abundant large mammal on the planet after humans, with a population at last census was about 15,000,000. However it should be clear that it has been a while since anyone counted.

Crabeater seal. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te papa.

True Antarctic seals (principally crabeater seals) were also killed in small numbers to be used as dog food at scientific stations until the early 1980s. The possible threat of renewed exploitation of Antarctic seals, especially by Norway after they mounted a pilot sealing expedition in 1964 persuaded the Antarctic Treaty Parties that specific protection was needed for them. The Convention for the Conservation of Antarctic Seal (CCAS) was agreed in 1972 and came into force six years later. In its Annex, the Convention specifies that up to 175 000 Crabeater seals, 12 000 leopard seals and 5000 Weddell seals can be taken. The Soviet Union took some 4000 seals (mostly Crabeater seals) with two vessels during a hunting expedition from December 1986 to February 1987 in the eastern D’Urville Sea and around the Balleny Islands. No further catches have been reported.

Leaving the Ross sea: Franklin Island in the distance. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

Our Far South: a tale of two huts

Not Lower and Upper Hutt, but instead the story of two attempts at the pole. That of Sir Ernest Shackleton and the voyage of the Nimrod, and Captain Robert Falcon Scott and the Terra Nova expedition.

Sunset on Mt. Erebus. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

We awoke to another extraordinary day at anchor off Cape Royds. The lunar landscape, derived from the explosive outpourings of Mt Erebus and the glacial action of some 20,000 years, producing remarkable scenery to walk through from Black sand beach to the Nimrod hut, or Shackelton’s hut as it is also known. This hut was a delight to look inside.

Shackleton's Nimrod hut. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

There is something about Shackleton that inspires, although he came some 90 miles short of getting to the pole on this expedition he did say on his return “better to be a live donkey, than a dead lion”. The hut situated in a great sheltered location adjacent to an Adelie penguin colony was sturdy and brilliantly maintained.

We had the great fortune of seeinga pod of about nearly a dozen Type-C killer whales just off shore . Three Killer Whale types have recently been documented in the Antarctic. Type A looks like a “typical” Killer Whale, living in open water and feeding mostly on Minke Whales. Type B is smaller than Type A. It has a large white eyepatch and a patch of grey colouring on its back, called a “dorsal cape”. It feeds mostly on seals. Type C is the smallest type and lives in larger groups than any other type of Killer Whale. Its eyepatch is distinctively slanted forwards, rather than parallel to the body axis. Like Type B, it has a dorsal cape. Its only prey observed so far is the Antarctic Cod. DNA work is currently being carried out to determine if these different types represent separate species.

Type C killer whale. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

After regrouping we moved again South to Cape Evans and the Terra Nova hut, the base from which Scott and his men left from on their ill fated attempt on the pole.

It was great to be able to get out and really stretch our legs.

Terra Nova hut. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

 

 

It was extraordinary to stand in the very places where these extraordinary characters from history once stood and to see the beds they slept in.

Even with all our modern gear on a very calm and pleasant day it was still bightingly cold.

Scott's bunk. Photo Anton van helden, copyright Te Papa.

Whatever anyone could ever say about them, they were people of remarakable bravery and courage.

Our Far South: McMurdo Sound

 

Scott Base, as South as we go:

McMurdo Sound, Mt. Discovery. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa

In a place where the sun sets at 12.30 and rises at 2.30 sights just get more and more incredible. At 1am the sea around the boat started to freeze, the water became grainy and and looked like grease, slowing as the ship carved through it, the ripples and wake of the boat like just flowing golden syrup in the setting sun light.

When I awoke we were anchored off McMurdo Station with Scott’s Discovery hut to our left and Observation hill to our right. We were surrounded by ice. As the first of the crews made their way by zodiacs, carving a fine channel to the shore, I watched for whales off the stern of the boat. What a sight, whale after whale apearing and blowing in the distant channels in the ice.

McMurdo Station. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

They appeared to be Minke whales and Sei whales. The minke whales, the smallest of the rorquals at about 8m were dwarfed by their biger cousins the Sei whales that are about double the size.

Soon it was my turn to go ashore. The outboard churned through the icy water making a giant slushy. We were greeted by two of the over wintering team from Scott Base, and transported on the right hand side of the road to Scott Base. They drive on the right because the Americans at McMurdo Station maintain the roads.

Scott base is contrastingly petite compared to McMurdo Station, which is like a small town. Scott base with it’s uniformly green buildings, is supplied with energy from the nearby wind turbines, that produce enough power to not only run the base but contribute to the running of McMurdo Station as well.

We visited the conservation lab where they are working on the objects and materials removed (and to be replaced back in) the huts from the heroic age of exploration.

Made me think about Robert Clendon, Te Papa’s object conservator who had done this work in the past.

Scott Base. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

We climbed to the top of Observation hill, where there stands a memorial to Scott and his team who perished in their ill fated trip to claim the South Pole.

It also afforded the crew a good vantage point to watch minke whales in the waters of McMurdo sound.

Discovery Hut was remarkable, as the conservation teams had obviously worked hard to maintain it as much as possible as it was. The environment down here being cold and dry providing the conditions to keep 100 year old mutton!!

On returning to the boat I spent some time whale watching and saw to my absolute amazement a large pod of Arnoux’s beaked whales in the free water on the far side of ice channel, breaching and porpoising. I estimate that there would have been between 20 and 30 animals. I tried to take photos, but sadly they are not the best, but still a record. Watching them through the binoculars was a spectacular sight.

The decision was made to spend the evening cruising the sound and looking for animals on our trip upt to Cape Royds where we would spend the night. Well that was some trip, perfect still conditions and animals at every turn. Weddell seals and a couple of Crabeater seals, appearing as if from nowhere in the channels in the ice created by the ship. as we broke the ice we got very close to a very confused lot of Emperor penguins.

Ross Sea at midnight. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

On the trip up the sound we saw minke whales spy hopping through holes in the ice, killer whales in small pods, adelie penguins running like mad across ice flows. It was an incredible night.

Our Far South: Land at last!

After 6 days at sea, we finally sighted land, Franklin Island, with it’s glacial snow cap looked like Eden after the roller coaster ride of the Ross Sea.

Franklin Island. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

Franklin Island is home to a large colony of Adelie penguins and is the hangout for a few Weddell seals. Weddell seals generally live by the fixed ice where males will vociferously defend their breathing hole against other males. Not here though, here they were hauled out on the beach and adjacent snow clad rise.

Weddell seals are quite a deep diving seal, with known dive depths in access of 700m. This species was once hunted around Ross Island.

Weddell seal. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

Weddell seals were harvested in small numbers and used to feed sled dogs on the Antarctic stations. But they are considered to have recovered to pre-exploitation numbers.

Moulting Adelie penguin. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

The Adelie penguins that were present were moulting, and much like the king and royal penguins on Macquarrie Island were largely unphased by our presence. They were however somewhat wary of the Antarctic skuas. A number of penguin carcasses had been meticulously pecked over and reduced to clean bones by the skuas.

We are now at about 76 degrees south and heading further south towards McMurdo sound. Sightings of some 50-60 Killer whales in the region has a number of the crew pretty excited, me among them!

Our Far South: Ross Sea adventure playground for Petrel heads.

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Tabular berg amidst pack ice. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

As we entered the Ross Sea we lef the band of large ice bergs behind us, and entered a fairly calm Ross sea. I kept a morning vigil on the bridge looking for whales. it was not until mid afternoon that we saw our first, a small and rapid antarctic Minke whale Balaenoptera bonarensis. These animals are still hunted by the Japanese as part of their “research” programme. They are also hunted by Killer whales! Later in the day we caught asight of a small pod of Type A killer whales. The different types of antarctic Killer whales have been ascribed the letters A, B and C. they are not only distinguishable by their looks but also by their feeding strategies.

Snow Petrel. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa

Type A specialise in the hunting of Antarctic Minke whales, Type B seals on Pack ice, and type C that are the most southerly form that feed primarily on fish near the continental ice edge.

So many whales were taken out of this region, it is scary to think that so few species have made any kind of recovery. In a matter of a few decades the population of Blue whales had been reduced from about 250,000 animals to probably less than a hundred, they are now estimated to number about 2000.
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Antarctic petrel and snow petrel. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

The boat has had a few constant companions since coming into the Ross Sea, which by the way is an enormous body of water. The Antarctic Petrel with their brown and white markings have been flocking around the boat, and along with the white snow petrels have been feeding in the disturbed waters of our wake.

We are heading down to Cape Crozier where we will rendez-vous with a Sanfords fishing vessel, as one of their crew is joining the Our Far South trip.

We still have a few hundred Nautical miles to run. Currently we are just over 73 degrees south.

Our Far South: Roaring Forties, furious fifties and Screaming sixties…

Heading south from Macquarie Island we have had some relatively calm seas, pretty remarkable for this part of the world.

Furious fifties. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa

Leaving the Roaring Forties which gave us a pretty slow rolling sea the fifties gave us a small taste of what it had to offer with some mild five-metre seas. Passing past 60 degrees south was significant as that is the line of latitude that marks the start of the Antarctic Treaty, the international piece of legislation that New Zealand is a signatory to.

The treaty was established in 1959 to dedicate Antarctica to peace and science.

What passing into the sixties has also provided us with our first icebergs. I guess I had imagined that the first ones we would see would be small….I could not have been more wrong. The first ones I saw were enormous, like large land masses that completely dwarfed the ship.

Iceberg. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

I was awoken this morning by the call of “Whale”, I did not get to see this animal but a photo revealed the dorsal fin of a Sei whale, a rorqual that can get up to 20m in length. This species has very fine baleen, and is thought to feed on very small crustaceans called copepods, but probably also the smaller krill species.

As we head now for the Antarctic circle at 66.33 degrees south ( ETA 5.20pm), the line where on the longest day the sun does not set. We have been keeping a vigil on the bridge looking our for whales and icebergs. We have so far seen about six humpbacks, none at terribly close range, but still visible with the naked eye and confirmed by looking at them with binoculars and some rather spectacular camera shots.

Tabular iceberg probably broken off from the Ross Ice Shelf. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa.

Seeing humpbacks down here is pleasing, as they were once hunted so fiercely as to nearly wipe them out. In the 1961-62 whaling season the Russian whaling fleet took nearly 28000 humpbacks out of the population south of New Zealand, which spelled the end to the whaling industry in New Zealand.

This species seems to be recovering well of the East coast of Australia, sadly very few are still passing by New Zealand, let’s hope that improves. The Japanese still have them on their list of species to take in their “scientific whaling” programme, which is a concern.

A single humpback whale represents US$1,000,000 to the whale watching industry in Tonga over it’s lifetime.

Iceberg. Photo Anton van Helden, copyright Te Papa

This afternoon we have been passing more and more icebergs, each shape as extraordinary as the next. From small little floaters that they call “growlers”, which get their name from the sound they make if the collide with the ship, to great monuments like this one that looks like the Arche Du Triomphe.

Ok I am heading back to the bridge to keep looking out for whales!

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